In this section: Lake Trasimeno | Assisi | Montefalco, Bevagna, Todi & Orvieto | Regional Food & Drink

Umbria is the smallest region in Italy and is often over shadowed by neighbouring Tuscany, but it is a beautiful and largely unspoilt area of Italy. 

It is a generally hilly area and is often called the “green heart of Italy”.  There are huge elm forests, with sparkling rivers following down to the River Tiber and Lake Trasimeno.  And throughout the region runs the Apennines mountain range, the 900 mile long backbone of Italy.  This is an area largely unknown to tourists and, in many ways, far removed from the traditional view of Italy

Overall, this is a region in which the medieval townscapes have been largely unchanged for centuries and there is a distinctly medieval feel to the place with the countryside dotted with castles and monasteries, and immaculate walled towns

It is, of course, the birthplace of St Francis and Assisi is the certainly the most visited city in Umbria.  

Our Well Being Break at the Villa Mignola is based on the edge of the city of Perugia, close to Lake Trasimeno and the Tuscany/Umbria border.  It is about 25 km from Assisi.

 

Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, Lake Trasimeno dominates the surrounding area.  One of the biggest lakes in Italy at 128 sq km, it is actually surprisingly shallow and is never more than about 7m deep, something which inspired both Julius Caesar and Napoleon to consider draining it.  This also means that the water warms up considerably during the summer and is perfect for swimming. 

There are also opportunities for boating and other water sports while keen walkers can follow the many lakeside trails.  There are some lovely restaurants on the promenade at Castiglione del Lago, the principal town on the lakeside, and, by a short boat ride from Passignano, you can visit the tiny fishing village on the Isola Maggiore (one of the lakes’ three islands) which was renowned for its lace-making.  St Francis once spent 42 days fasting on this island, a place he considered to be ideal for contemplation.

A complete circuit of the lake involves a drive of about 60km and is well worth it.  Another interesting place to visit is Tuoro, where the Battle of Lake Trasimeno took place in 217BC in which Hannibal, on his way to Rome, defeated the Roman general Flaminius.  This is vividly recounted in Livy’s history of the Punic Wars.

 

Assisi is the most visited city in Umbria – the birthplace of St. Francis and a place of pilgrimage for centuries, as St Francis is an attractive person whether you are Christian, Buddhist, or of any other religion. 

The city is built on a rolling hillside below Monte Subasio, the source of the building stone which gives the city its unique colours.  It is often very busy with tourists but with good reason, it is a beautiful place.

Assisi has an imposing medieval castle and the massive basilica of San Francesco, perched on the western slope of the city, which towers over the rooftops.  Work started on this two years after the death of St Francis and it became the site of his tomb some years later.  He was buried in secret so his remains wouldn’t be stolen and the exact site of his tomb was not known until 1818. 

The basilica was damaged very badly in the earthquake of 1997 but it has been painstakingly restored and is home to an exceptional series of frescos painted by Giotto depicting the life story of St Francis.

 

Located about 20km south east of Perugia, Montefalco (“Falcon Mountain”) is a sleepy, sun-soaked town famous for its upmarket red wine, which you can sample in the various wine dealers located in the main street.  The panoramic view from the village walls or the Torre Comunale across the landscape have earned it the nick-name “the balcony of Umbria”.  It also contains one of the loveliest museums of sacred art in Umbria, located in the former church of San Francesco.  This contains the famous 12 scenes of the life of St Francis painted by the Florentine artist, Benozzo Gozzoli, a pupil of Fra Angelico. 

Close to Montefalco is the quiet and unspoilt town of Bevagna, allegedly the town where the emperor Caligula developed his strategy for the Germanic wars.  It is the location of one of the best preserved Roman bath-house mosaics in the whole of Italy – in the basement of Via Porta Guelfa - showing the sea-god Triton which his entourage of dolphins, octopus, sea-horses and a surprisingly realistic lobster.  In the summer, the town’s locals dress in medieval costume to perform mystery plays

Founded on a spot where, allegedly, an eagle dropped a napkin that had been seized from an Etruscan banqueting table, Todi is everything you could hope for in a medieval Italian town.  Perched on the edge of a mountain, and looking down on the valley of the River Tiber, Todi can provide that most alluring of scenes in Italy – a mist filled valley with a beautiful town bathed in light above it.  The town’s main attractions are the focal point of the Piazza del Popolo which has changed little since the 14th century, and the church of Santa Maria Consolazione.

Just beyond Todi on the Tiber is Orvieto, historically the most northern port on the river, and mentioned by the Roman historians Livy and Pliny the Younger, who lived nearby.  The city itself is situated above the river with sheer cliffs falling to the valley below its walls.  Due to the risk of landslides, the city is virtually free of traffic; instead there are a series of escalators that transport people from the car parks up and into the pedestrian city. 

Orvieto is dominated by the cathedral of Santa Maria, widely considered to be one of the world’s most beautiful cathedrals.  Also of note is the Pozzo di San Patrizio (St Patrick’s Well) a 60 metre deep shaft accessed by a double spiral stairway, built from a design by Leonardo da Vinci, and originally invented for use in a brothel so that people going in wouldn’t have to directly pass people coming out!  

 

Like Tuscany, Umbrian cuisine is simple peasant food.  As the Umbrians say, “piu se spenne, peggio se magna” – the more you spend, the less well you eat.  Its cuisine avoids using too many ingredients, with variation and flavour being provided by carefully chosen and totally fresh herbs. 

Overall, its cuisine is slightly richer than that of neighbouring Tuscany as many dishes are cooked “according to the hunter’s method” and are full of distinctive flavours.  Some of the restaurants in Perugia specialize in gourmet meals by this method.

Other favourites include grilled fish from Trasimeno and the fast flowing rivers nearby, often accompanied by local asparagus.  It has many other specialities of its own, such as its salamis, and makes extensive use of tartufo and mushrooms from the local woods.  The local olive oil is thicker and more aromatic than that of Tuscany and is usually used as a seasoning rather than in the main dish.  Many consider this oil to be the best in Italy. 

Umbria has a long history of wine making as can be seen at the Museo de Vino (the Museum of Wine) located in Torgiano close to Perugia.  The most famous local wine is the Orvieto Classico, a delicate white wine, something you don’t see a lot of in Italy.